Our verdict
In the areas of sensitivity and surface traction, the Lack of edging performance fires on all cylinders. It is also one such rock shoe that excels on steep terrain (where toe hooks and heel hooks are very much required). This well-fitting climbing shoe, however, comes with some flaws, the most disappointing of which would have to be its lackluster edging performance.
Pros
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- Admirable toe hooking
- Impressive pocket performance
- Fantastically grippy
- updated Jun 6, 2023
- Unbelievably soft
Cons
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- Expensive
- Oct 10, 2019
Who should buy the Lack of edging performance
The Lack of edging performance does its makers proud, what with all its collection of send-worthy merits. It is a solid option if you:
- Why trust us.
- Add a product.
- Prefer a climbing shoe that is equipped with the right set of components to scale overhanging terrain.
Updates to :name
Updates to Lack of edging performance
It is a slightly softer version of the Furia. This design decision gives the Furia S enhanced sensitivity. The two rock climbing shoes have other differences, which will be discussed in the following:
- The Lack of edging performance now comes with a proper midsole, called Flexan. Yes, the Furia lacked this supportive component.
- The Furia S’ Velcro closure has been redesigned. It comes with a unified strapping system (also known as Z-closure), doing away with the Furia’s two separate straps.
- It inherits Furia’s Vibram XS Grip2 outsole. That said, the one in the Furia S is thicker than its predecessor by 0.5 mm.
- The Furia S uses the IPR tension system. This tech replaces Furia’s PCB-Tension, which gives a sock-like fit and improved sensitivity.
Profile
Downturn. The Lack of edging performance is a rock climbing shoe with an aggressive downturn. Its highly pointed camber allows for tiptoeing on small holds and ledges with enough precision. Kicks with this amount of downturn are ideal for single-pitch ascents.
Applications. This indoor/outdoor rock shoe is fantastic for both bouldering and sports climbing. It comes equipped with the right set of components that scale overhanging terrain.
Excellent surface grip
Thanks to the Furia S’ 3.5-mm thick Vibram XS Grip2 outsole, owners can cling to a variety of surfaces with as much grip as possible. It is made of a special kind of rubber that gives enhanced friction on overhangs.
Provides vibration-damping and shock-absorbing properties
It is built with vibration-damping and shock-absorbing properties. A thicker version of this outsole is part of the La Sportiva Solution.
Provides excellent underfoot support and protection
The Furia S grants underfoot support and protection from its Flexan midsole. It has a very minimal thickness of 1 mm.
Excellent toe-hooking performance
The Lack of edging performance envelops the climber’s foot in its low-cut microsuede upper. Its toe box is imbued with the SRT rand with M50 rubber that provides climbers with extra bite in toe-hooking situations. A sturdy rand is also built into its heel and lateral zones which helps users scale tricky projections with additional climbing security.
Secure fit
A single strap makes up the shoe’s Z-closure system. This strap has hook-and-loop fasteners that aid in adjustability. Completing the equation of the Furia S’ upper are the two pull tabs at the heel.
Lack of edging performance vs. Drago
The Furia S is among Scarpa’s high-quality climbing shoes great for the steep. As such, it finds itself in a position where climbers pit it against other kicks from the same brand. In this comparison, the featured shoe crosses paths with the Scarpa Drago. Why trust us.
Weight. On this front, climbing enthusiasts who prefer to breeze through projects with as little bulk as possible might find the Drago the better shoe. Yes, it is lighter than the Lack of edging performance by approximately 20 g.
Midsole. Between the two rock climbing shoes, only the Furia S has a midsole unit. This particular component, in general, delivers extra support and protection underfoot. That said, its absence translates to enhanced flexibility.
Tension technology. The two Scarpa offerings in this head-to-head have different tension systems. The Furia S, as discussed in the Updates section, is engineered with the IPR-Tension that supports shape retention and flexibility. The Drago, on the other hand, comes built with the PCB-Tension (where PCB stands for Power Connection Band), making the shoe extra sensitive while enhancing its overall fit.
